2023 Les Aubaguetes
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I was anxious to taste the bottled 2023 Les Aubaguetes, as the sample from last year had shown the most elegant of the wines from 2023. It comes from an exceptional vineyard, "vinya classificada," 1.79 hectares of ancient vines (60% Garnacha, 35% Cariñena and 5% white varieties in 2023) in the village of Bellmunt del Priorat, a place that is different from most of the other vineyards in the village of Gratallops and always delivers pale, silky and fresher wines, with a more delicate profile, reflecting a north-facing, more humid place. This fermented in oak vats with indigenous yeasts and had a 36-day maceration. It matured in oval French oak foudres for 13 months and spent two more months in concrete before bottling. Right now, it has a little bit of spicy oak, a rarity in the wines, but it can sometimes happen; it's light but noticeable next to the other wines. It has a moderate 14% alcohol and a very balanced palate with freshness and elegance. It has turned a lot more classical, with the serene harmony and the depth of the old vines, fine-boned, elegant and harmonious, even a little shy today, hinting at a slow development in bottle. This vineyard is revealing a strong personality and is the source of a superb wine, more and more consistent each vintage. 1,200 bottles were filled in February 2025, a particularly low-yielding year for this vineyard. There will be no 2024 because of the rain during the harvest and the problems with botrytis; there was only one barrel.
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Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
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From 1.79ha in the village of Bellmunt, this is a field blend in which Garnacha makes up just 60%. Perhaps this is why Les Aubaguetes reveals a greater sense of Priorat's mineral characters. On the nose, elegant white flowers join rhubarb, redcurrant and a stony sensation. The palate begins plump and ripe, perfumed with red fruits and a sense of hot slate, leading to a long, controlled finish. Scores will surely increase as this wine matures.
This is a scented and elegant wine showing delicate red berry fruit with touches of white pepper, minerals and grapefruit. Firm, medium-bodied and chalky, with a fine thread of tannins. Linear and enveloping in the finish, with rose hips and citrus. A challengingly dry and hot year, but this maintains its nuances. This is a Priorat for pinot lovers who seek finesse. Drink now or hold.