2012 Morey St Denis Cheseaux

The 2012 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux has a comparatively light and feminine bouquet with airy red cherry and strawberry fruit. The palate is well-balanced with fine tannins. There is a gentle build in the mouth toward an effervescent, very pretty finish with touches of peach and apricot on the aftertaste. This is lovely, a peach of a wine that comes highly recommended. After scheduling and re-scheduling numerous times during my November tastings, I finally reached Domaine Arlaud Pere & Fils for the first time in late January. But good things come to those that wait and I found much to admire in Cyprien Arlaud’s 2012s. The origin of the estate dates back to a wedding in 1949 when Joseph Arlaud married Renee Amiot. Among the wedding presents were tracts of vineyard, which is always more useful than a toaster or an ornamental clock. Joseph was succeeded by Herve Arlaud in 1982 and invested in new vineyards and the estate has now been passed to his three children: Cyprien, Romain and Bertille. The domaine has eschewed herbicides since 1999 and transferred the vineyards to organic viticulture in 2004, certified three years later. Naturally (no pun intended) they started embracing biodynamics in 2009, including the use of horses in the vineyard to reduce soil compaction. The winery was constructed in 2003 in Morey-Saint-Denis, on the “other side” of the RN74 away from the village, a less picturesque part of the appellation for sure, but with much more space to work in. The fruit is de-stemmed although Cyprien does play with whole cluster fruit subject to the growing season. Natural yeasts are used during alcoholic fermentation and oak tends to be 15-20% for village crus up to 40-80% for grand crus. When I visited the winery, it was after a long day tasting, but even so my senses lit up when I sipped the first sample. Here are wines made in a very pure and natural style, each evocative of their respective terroirs. Each wine was imbued with superb freshness and delineation; occasionally evoking images of the sea, at other times flowers. Cyprien explained how they wait for the optimal moment to harvest their vines, which can differ by days between different crus within the same appellation (see note for “Les Ruchots”.) Importer: North Berkeley Wine www.northberkeleyimports.com and also Raeburn Fine Wines (UK)

Notable for its darker fruit character. Chewy, savoury and plenty of depth in this more savoury style. Refined tannins and long finish. (JH)

Bright red. Very primary aromas of cherry, raspberry and sweet oak are lifted by rocky minerality. Juicy, tight and energetic, with saline minerality nicely counterpointed by sharply delineated red fruits. Finishes juicy, long and perfumed. From 34-year-old vines in a cooler microclimate, picked ripe and late according to Arlaud.