2018 Riesling Kabinett Limestone
Estimated value
Buying options
Tasting notes
Sourced (like its vintage 2016 and 2017 predecessors) from Kirchspiel and to a much lesser extent Abtserde, this dwarfs most of Keller’s other wines in terms of production, a circumstance that reflects his delight in Kabinett as a category (and also, of course, market receptivity). In Mosel fashion, it leads with yeasty, cheesy byproducts of its spontaneous fermentation. But these do not obscure scents of lime, apple, pink grapefruit and honeydew melon, all of which anticipate the succulent and brightly juicy abundance of fruit that features on a polished, buoyant palate. An unexpected inner-mouth emergence of honeysuckle and orange blossom perfume adds allure, while suggestions of mint and basil convey a delightfully cooling impression. The luscious and consummately refreshing finish is further enlivened by a static-electric limestone ping. As with this year’s Scheurebe Kabinett, Keller permitted alcohol to reach 9%, which in no way precludes levity, but has the valuable consequence of containing sweetness to just the essential level needed to maximally enhance the fruit.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Bottled. Fruit from AbtsE and Kirchspiel. RS 40 g/l. Pure, lifted lime and lemon fruit with piercing herbal freshness. Prettily scented with pure citrus on the palate. Doesn’t seem to taste much sweeter than the Limestone (non Kabinett) because of the fruit intensity. Finest of fruit, unencumbered by spice or herbs. Less complex than the Grosse Gewächse but with elegance and a dancing freshness. Unexpectedly persistent, even a little creamy on the finish despite the piercing acidity. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.