2010 Beaune Greves

(these vines are 90 years of age, vs. about 45 for the Beaune Les Aigrots): Moderately saturated medium red. Vinous, fruit-driven aromas of cherry, redcurrant and strawberry. Suave, round and fine-grained, with lovely finesse to the redcurrant and smoke flavors. Sound acidity carries the finish, which offers a subtle spice character.

The 2010 Beaune Les Greves wraps around the palate with layers of rich, textured fruit. Crushed rocks, mint and flowers develop in the glass, adding considerable depth, dimension and complexity to the dark fruit. Layers of flavor continue to build to the gorgeous, radiant finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Yields were down 40% in 2010 at Lafarge. According to Frederic Lafarge, a superb September saved a year marked by damp, cold weather during the flowering and later throughout the summer. On the positive side, the low yields per plant allowed the grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness. The 2010s were racked in mid-August 2011 and were aging on their fine lees when I tasted them from barrel in November 2011. As pretty as the 2010s are, today I have a slight preference for the 2009s. That said, the 2010s are terrific, and many of the wines are at or near the top of their respective peer groups. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

Extremely subtle and nuanced. Many layers here. Frank, fresh and then flirtatious. Stuffed with charming fruit. Absolutely textbook stuff.  (JR)