1992 Chassagne Montrachet Les Embrazees

The 1992 Chassagne-Montrachet-Les Embrazees is a full throttle, in-your-face style of white burgundy, with a huge nose of candied oranges, honeyed nuts, and buttery popcorn. Thick, unctuous, and rich, this thoroughly seductive, decadent wine possesses low acidity, as well as gobs of fruit, glycerin, and alcohol. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. It continues to be rare to find anything less than exciting from Bernard Morey, a red-cheeked vigneron with a fifties pompadour haircut. His wines are delicious in off years, so it is not surprising he has hit the bull's eye with the 1992s. Although these offerings had just been bottled when I tasted them, they were still immensely impressive wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands (Robert Haas), Chester, VT.