2016 Chablis Mont de Milieu
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2016 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru was harvested between 25 and 30hl/ha, with 20% aged in wood the rest in stainless steel for 18 months. The slightly longer élevage engenders a more complex bouquet than the Montée de Tonnerre with yellow fruit, green apple, chalk and light musky scents that are very well defined. The palate is very well delineated with a crisp bead of acidity, poised and saline in the mouth and just when you think it will fan out, it segues into a linear and classically lined, understated finish. Excellent.
Notes of white flowers, citrus zest and beeswax introduce the 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu, a medium-bodied, taut and compact wine with a chalky, acid-driven profile. It's a somewhat austere, ungenerous wine, even by the standards of the region, but I wouldn't bet against it developing well in bottle.
Fresh lime citrus and light stony herbal note. All very subtle but definite. Moreish, rounded and surprisingly soft in this vintage. Tastes softer than the nose indicated – but it is all relative. Still has Chablis dry crispness. Mealy, more savoury aftertaste. (JH)
About the producer
Samuel Billaud started making wine under his own name in 2009, but he is one of the most experienced producers in Chablis, having made wine in the region since 1985.