1984 d'Yquem

This is a surprisingly good wine made under very trying conditions. Yquem began to harvest on October 15 and made the last pass through the vineyards on November 13. Seventy-five percent of the crop was retained for Yquem. The wine at present exhibits a great deal of toasty oak in the bouquet, which is also filled with scents of smoked almonds, glazed pineapples, and honey and caramel. In the mouth, the wine is less flamboyant, with less glycerin and power than usual, but it is still a rich, full-bodied Yquem with a great deal of personality and character. It will not have the great aging potential of the top vintages, but I fully expect it to last at least another 20 years. Anticipated maturity: Now-2008. Last tasted, 3/90.

The 1984 Yquem is one of the weakest wines of the decade from the estate. As I found from the solitary half-bottle that I drank some years back, the nose is very simple with dried honey and resinous scents, but there's little to really satiate the senses. The palate is bitter on the entry with orange rind and smoke, but you can feel some rot on the finish, which means you're not racing back for more. Frankly, there are alternative off-vintages of Yquem that I prefer. Tasted at the château as part of an Yquem vertical.