2008 Chapelle Chambertin

Bright red-ruby. Black cherry and pepper aromas complicated by a suggestion of exotic fruits. Ripe and sweet but with less intensity and class-not to mention complexity-than the Bonnes-Mares. With moderate mid-palate stuffing, the tannins come off as a bit dry.

Bright cherry aromas in Bouchard’s 2008 Chapelle-Chambertin signal a brightly red-fruited yet at the same time almost unctuously rich palate impression, with hints of white pepper, chalk dust, ginger, and iron filings lending invigorating complexity, while kisses of vanilla and caramel add a confectionary aura. “Will the real Chapelle please stand up?” you might ask. But this persistently, dynamically interactive Pinot should continue to fascinate and stimulate—even if as something of a riddle—for 12–15 years. Director-winemaker Philippe Prost made no attempt to minimize the challenges of 2008 and was careful to distinguish between its wind-borne concentration and genuinely ideal phenolic maturity (approached more nearly this year in white than red). He opined that the wide window afforded for relaxed picking despite the late calendar date was critical, since ripeness levels were so disparate from one site to another. That said, he showed me an outstanding collection of Pinots. Ironically, as he pointed out, ripeness was also disparate in one of the two earliest vintages on record, 2007, yet picking—while fitful—was anything but relaxed due to rot pressure. And here, too, Bouchard scored excellent successes. By, where necessary, “swapping lees” between barrels to inoculate stubborn lots, Prost says he was able to get all of his 2008s through malolactic conversion in timely fashion, which he considers especially important with Pinot. Bottling of the 2008 reds—with a few exceptions mentioned in my notes and due to have been bottled in April—took place in December and January, the same schedule adopted for their 2007s. I did not have an opportunity to taste nearly all of Bouchard’s vast collection from either vintage, and in the text of my notes have indicated a few from among their 2008s that I take to represent significant omissions. (I have not noted “Domaine” to distinguish those wines that are part of the Bouchard, except in cases where there is another otherwise eponymous wine.) Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767

Bright red-ruby. Black cherry and pepper aromas, complemented by a hint of exotic fruits. Ripe and sweet, but with less intensity and class—not to mention complexity—than the Bonnes-Mares. With moderate mid-palate stuffing, the tannins come across as a bit dry.