2017 Yattarna

Light, vivid yellow. Expressive aromas of fresh pit and tropical fruits, along with suggestions of lemon curd, vanilla and toasty lees. Smooth and fleshy on the palate, offering pliant nectarine, pineapple and tangerine flavors that firm up and take on a spicy aspect through the mid-palate. A floral note builds on a long, smooth finish that strongly echoes the pit fruit note.

Aged for eight months in French oak (50% new). From Tasmania, Tumbarumba, Adelaide Hills. TA 7.2 g/l, pH 3.22. Flint, cereal, caramel, butterscotch and tart green apple on the nose. Citric but with creaminess too, and loads of textural interest. Long, apple-skin fruit on the finish. Dry as a bone, but with lovely refreshing acidity to keep the palate hydrated. (RH)

Tasmania, Tumbarumba, Adelaide Hills. TA 7.2 g/l, pH 3.22. Eight months in French oak barriques (50% new, 32% one-year-old, 18% seasoned). 44% Tasmania, and more new oak than Reserve Bin A this year. Tasmania, Tumbarumba and the Adelaide Hills all experienced a wet winter with cool conditions extending into early spring. With healthy soil moisture profiles, shoot thinning was necessary to control vigour and yield in some vineyards. The latter part of the growing season was also similar across all three regions, with generally mild weather extending hang time before harvest. There were few extreme weather events, with no recorded heatwaves. Quality was excellent, with strong varietal and regional characters emerging. Conditions for harvest were ideal, with excellent flavours and striking natural acidity. A memorable vintage for Chardonnay. Restrained and bone dry on the end. More ambitious than Bin 311 with vibrancy and lime and minerals on the end, though needs a little softening and rounding in bottle. They are pouring 15- and 16-year-old magnums of Yattarna which are looking good, apparently. (JR)