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Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
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In 2022, the Bonnes Mares from Boisset's Domaine de la Vougeraie is delicious, boasting high-toned raspberry fruit aromas with a distinct note of violets and liquorice; there is a great purity of fruit, and the earthy/savoury side of this vineyard is not readily apparent. The texture is bright and fresh, but there is substance as well. The grapes come from three parcels that total 0.70 hectares; two are on the Chambolle side on terres blanches; the largest is closer to Bruno Clair on the Morey side.
The 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is so much better than the disappointing 2021 last year. There is tons more fruit on the nose: blueberry, black plums, and light incense aromas. The medium-bodied palate has firm tannins. It is quite flinty in texture with a touch of graphite even, though it gains density and feels reassuringly long on the finish. Good potential.
About the producer
Based south of Nuits-Saint-Georges in Prémeaux-Prissey, Domaine de la Vougeraie was created in 1999, grouping all of Jean-Claude Boisset’s holdings under one name. The property has a total 40 hectares of vines, with extensive holdings in Vougeot as well as plots in six Grands Crus.