2006 Boerl & Kroff

The 2006 Brut wafts from the glass with aromas of ripe citrus fruit, warm bread, smoke and honeycomb that mingle with nuances of bitter orange, fresh field mushrooms and walnuts. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny textured, rich and muscular, with impressive amplitude and concentration, a lively spine of acidity and chewy structuring extract, concluding with a long and nicely defined finish. Sabaté wonders aloud whether it was disgorged too soon, but there's no denying it's showing very well today, capturing the richness of the vintage without any of its potential heaviness.