2008 Bernkasteler Doctor Spatlese

The Thanisch 2008 Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Spatlese A.P. #6 smells alluringly and bittersweetly of buddleia, musky narcissus, rowan, herbal essences, green tea, and nut oils. A correspondingly wafting, delicate, decadently perfumed palate adds notes of cherry, candied lime zest, malt, and honey that reflect the character of Riesling from this village and – if not the presence of botrytis – an impressively advanced state of phenolic evolution. The combination of textural creaminess with enlivening acidity and buoyancy is uncannily achieved. There will be fascination and sensual satisfaction aplenty for those who can afford and have the patience to cellar some of this for the next 15-20 years. Sofia Thanisch echoed many of her fellow vintners in noting that the choice of which pickings would be bottled as Kabinett and which as Spatlese was largely made on the basis of the young wines’ evolution in cask, since the must weights and condition of fruit were relatively uniform and there was very little botrytis. Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424