2017 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes derives from vines that are between 50 and 85 years age, but Harmand tells me that the cuvée is more of a terroir selection from riper sites, including Champerrier, En Monge and Combe du Dessus on the Brochon side of the commune of Gevrey-Chambertin. Exhibiting aromas of smoked meats, wild berries, spices and dark chocolate, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and muscular, but I preferred the more defined and penetrating Clos Prieur this year.