2022 Testamatta Bianco
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Tasting notes
With 7,000 bottles released, the Bibi Graetz 2022 Testamatta Bianco is fresh in character and linear in terms of its aromatic delivery. It helps that one-third of the wine goes through stainless steel, with the rest in neutral oak. This approach allows you to better appreciate aromas of fresh peach, white plumeria flower, persimmon, salty minimality and iodine. It's also worth noting that the Testamatta sources much of its fruit from north-facing slopes. Those cooler conditions certainly help in a hot vintage like 2022. The Colore is certainly more opulent in comparison. This wine does not go through malolactic fermentation because the goal is to keep as much freshness as possible. Stirring of the lees is gentle and enough to keep them alive, and it also serves to fight off excessive oxidation of the wine.
Critic scores
Average Score
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux
More reviews and scores
As is often the case with Testamatta compared to Colore, you can expect a bigger immediate hit with this white compared to its sibling, with jasmine and honeysuckle on the aromatics, leading to white gooseberries and gentle citrus, reflecting the fresh acidities that draw out the finish. Expressive and full-bodied, with waves of flavour, an unusual white from the Ansonica grape. Great quality, engaging, and I recommend giving this a bit of time in a carafe, because it has layers and depths that reward patience. Bibi Graetz winemaker.
About the producer
Based just outside Florence, Bibi Graetz is something of a maverick in the Tuscan wine scene. Working with old vineyards of indigenous grapes around Chianti, he produces intense wines classified as IGT Toscana; not fitting neatly in either the Super Tuscan or Chianti camp.