1992 Malvazia
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Tasting notes
Bottled 2021. Very, very smoky! Almost whisky-like. Smoked tobacco leaves, smoked cheese and membrillo. Quirky, curious, challenging, and astounding. My mouth is just filled with fireworks and wonder. Quince and smoke and tobacco leaf and nutmeg and so, so much energy. A tessellation of complexity, of form, of finely interlocking crystalline glory. (TC)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Browny gold. Very nutty, sour apricot, sweet and moreish with great acidity. These wines are more extreme but less elegant than some. Slightly aggressive but amazing intensity. (JH)
Pungent and gunmetal. Bit dry. (JR)
The 1992 Malvasia is a little muffled on the nose with notes of orange peel, toffee apple, mint and white peach. The palate is soft and approachable with a delicate touch of stem ginger interwoven through the marmalade, honey and Clementine notes. The only caveat is that it fades too quickly on the finish, but otherwise this is respectable. It was in 1850 that Joao Pereira d’Oliveira founded his company. He initially sold wines to other shippers, and it was not until the 1970s that they began to sell Madeira wines under their own label (though they continued to sell and buy lots, to and from other shippers.) It is a small company, but there are plentiful stocks of reserve wines. Their policy is to bottle on demand, which means their vintage wines can invariably benefit from extended cask aging. Let us begin with their reserve wines, which are mainly Tinta Negra Mole and are matured under estufugem. Importer: The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA; Tel: (203) 457-1431; Fax: (203) 457- 4471