1937 d'Yquem

Served from an ex-chateau bottle. The 1937 Chateau d’Yquem was made in a year when there was a severe drought in Sauternes, though the crop was harvested between September 21 and November 3, the heart of the crop was picked during a warm dry spell between October 1-21. It is a legendary wine, but on this occasion it was easily surpassed. Having said that, winemaker Sandrine Garbay mentioned that this was not the best bottle and that on its day it can rank alongside the 1945. On any other day, this would have been the wine of the tasting. It has a deep mahogany color. The nose gently unfurls in the glass with scents of orange rind, mandarin, honeysuckle and melted candle wax. The palate is linear and correct on the entry and certainly gives notice of an immensely powerful Yquem, even if this bottle does not possess the delineation and tension of the 1945. This particular bottle might suggest that the 1937 is past its lofty peak, although there is enough here to suggest that the next might deliver nirvana. Drink now-2025+. Tasted March 2014.

Golden and yellow colour, very very sweet and rich – almost rum toffee nose. Essence of crème caramel but with great structure – still chewy. Long and very fresh. Some astringency on the finish. Very mellow nose that’s almost rancio – you could almost take this for a Madeira. Lots of acidity. Very complete. Very long and great nobility and confidence. Interesting almost vegetal element. (JR)