2020 Blaufrankisch Reserve

Older vines from parcels in Lutzmannsburg. 24 months in old barrels. Smudgy mid crimson. Floral and blackberry notes, sweetness and fragrance, openly aromatic. But then a top note of stony/minerality. Acidity seems more present here than in the 2021, but still completely integrated with all this concentrated fruit, picked at perfection. Smooth, with a fine bite of freshness on the finish. Firm but rounded. (JH)

Entirely sourced in Lutzmannsburg—and to be renamed as Lutzmannsburger from the 2021 vintage onward—the 2020 Moric Reserve is a Burgenland Blaufränkisch that opens with a deep and spicy, seductively fine but also intense and complex nose of dark and red fruits intertwined with spicy phenols and earthy terroir notes. Smooth yet also clear, refined and fresh on the palate, with silky tannins and a noble, saline acidity, this is a tight but elegant and straightforward Blaufränkisch with the charm and finesse of a great Gamay. The tannins are remarkably fine and crunchy here and intermingled with salinity and mineral freshness. Rarely have I tasted a Blaufränkisch with this purity, finesse and elegance. 13% stated alcohol. Tasted in Lech in December 2022.

Focused and sleek, with aromas ranging from sour cherry to savory and candied orange. Quite compact structure, but there’s nothing weighty about this, much less massive. Long, energetic finish with a slew of subtle spicy nuances. Excellent aging potential. Drink or hold.