2015 Frauenberg Spatburgunder Grosses Gewachs

Medium depth of cherry red colour, ruby rim. In its fragrance the Frauenberg, just like the Bürgel, puts fruit first, red and dark berries complemented by a delicate notion of ripe plum. The only clue to the employment of oak-ageing comes from a gentle fragrance of smoky bacon drifting across the glass. On the palate, firm but ripe tannins and juicy acidity are comfortably accommodated by a viscous texture, putting the quality of structure on par with a generous display of fruit, in which raspberries, cherries and plums take centre stage. Salty and smoky notes mark the contribution of minerality and oak ageing. Very tempting to drink now, but laying down should bring even greater rewards. (MS)

While there are lovely intimations of ripe red and black raspberry on the nose, sea breeze and meat stock dominate. On the polished palate, fresh berry juiciness is mingled with beef stock and a bone-meal-like impression of marrowy, smoky and chalky suffusion. Taut berry skin and seedy crunch offer mouth-shaking invigoration on a superbly sustained, mouthwatering, multifaceted finish that does justice to Pinot’s potential for expressing animal and mineral flavors.