2019 Bolgheri Rosso Superiore Grattamacco

Reserved layers and depth slowly begin to emerge from the 2019 Grattamacco, so it is going to need time in cellar to open and show itself. As it opens in the glass, it reveals attractive dark mineral earth, kirsch, black pepper spice, and balsamic. It is concentrated and compact at this stage, with savory richness, and it displays full and balanced structure, ripe and present tannins, and notes of cassis, cedar, and pine resin. It reveals rich complexity without ever feeling murky, and its energetic tension takes this wine to the next level. Drink 2025-2050. I met with Luca Marrone, chief winemaker for ColleMassari Wine Estates, for the first time in person this past November, having previously been restricted to Zoom meetings during the height of the pandemic. My visit to the Bolgheri estate was long anticipated and did not disappoint. Grattamacco was founded in 1977 by Piermario Meletti Cavallari (Giorgio Meletti Cavallari’s father). Luca is one of the more thoughtful and exciting winemakers, producing compelling wines with remarkable focus and transparency of place across each of the regions. Today, they have 32 hectares of vines, predominantly of Cabernet Sauvignon, along with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, and a small amount of Petit Verdot. They also have the oldest Vermentino vines in Bolgheri, and the white wines hold an important place in the range. Touring the winery, they have a collection of some of the first open-tank barrels that Sassicaia used in their first vintage in 1968, which they continue to use, and they are an important part of informing their wines today. The following wines were tasted exclusively at the winery.

Lustrous mid ruby. Great depth but still a little closed, with distinct spicy notes and a hint of bell pepper. Perfumed fruit emerges with aeration. Supple and succulent and with gorgeous, polished, finely ground tannins. Not yet ready but hard to resist right now. (WS)

Black cherry, quite a lot of earthiness for a young wine too, then firmly tannic on the palate. This is dense and compact, with just-ripe black fruit giving less overt expression than the 2018. Likely to be very long-lived, and has a sense of complexity that is just under the surface. Will take its time, but there's going to be grand proportions here in future. (RH)