1995 Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot

Rust-red, almost turning tawny at the rim, this 1995 Ancienne Cuvée Carnot is amazingly vibrant in the glass. The nose is, unsurprisingly, dominated by savoury, earthy tones – with leather and smoke, but the palate is where this spritely Volnay Premier Cru reveals its quality. Supple and silken, with beautifully dense cherry fruit, there’s a slight, pleasing rusticity to the chalky tannic grip that seizes up the finish. The finish is long and ferrous, with a bonfire-like scent that reverberates on the tongue. With acidity and alcohol seamlessly integrated, this is delicious mature red Burgundy – combining freshness and fruit with savoury depths that cry out for hard cheese or game (indeed, grouse season is just around the corner – and this would be a perfect match for the Glorious Twelfth).