2017 Barolo Margheria
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The most structured and tannic of these new releases from Azelia is the 2017 Barolo Margheria. The tannins are quite present, meaning that you are required to afford generous aging time to this Barolo from Serralunga d'Alba, hoping that the fruit intensity will run the course. At this young stage, the wine shows blackberry and plum, with licorice, rusty nail and some crushed stone or terracotta clay. The wine's mineral signature is strong and elegant. In appearance, it reveals a lean and bright ruby color, and the power and natural richness of the mouthfeel come as a welcome surprise. This was a release of about 5,900 bottles.
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Jeb Dunnuck
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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The 2017 Barolo Margheria is herbaceous with sweet tobacco, dried black raspberry, and gentian root. The palate is drying with fast building tannins and notes of tea leaf, cherry pit, and orange pith. Hold for 3-6 years and drink 2025-2045. Located in Castiglione Falletto, the Azelia estate was founded in 1920 by Lorenzo Scavino. Today it is led by his great-grandson, Luigi Scavino, who is also the cousin of Enrico Scavino of the Paolo Scavino winery. They work to minimize treatments in the vineyard as well as sulfur in the winery. Annual production is approximately 6,000 cases a year.
The 2017 Barolo Margheria is gorgeous. Open, perfumed aromatics are immediately alluring. On the palate, the 2017 is a dark, mysterious wine, with layers of flavor that continue to develop over time. Dark cherry, blood orange, spice, leather, iron and scorched earth add striking layers of nuance. The tannins are potent - we are in Serralunga after all - but the 2017 has so much to offer. It's a gorgeous Barolo to enjoy over the next two decades, maybe more.