2017 Barolo Bricco Fiasco

A product of 85-plus-year-old vines in Castiglione Falletto, the Azelia 2017 Barolo Bricco Fiasco is subdued and delicate, with linear fruit of wild plum and blackberry, plus hints of blue flower and pressed violet. The age of the vines and the depth of the root system in the loose soils of this site have helped to maintain balance and freshness during the hottest moments of this vintage. Indeed, this wine is more immediately silky in texture compared to Azelia's wines from Serralunga d'Alba (like the Barolo Margheria also reviewed in this report). This release of 5,600 bottles presents a nice opportunity to try your hand at a delicate rabbit ravioli for a very special occasion a few years from now.

The 2017 Barolo Bricco Fiasco has ripe aromatics of red plum, baking spice, rose petal, and cedar. The palate is fuller in body, with juicy black cherry, cola, and balsamic as well as ripe tannins. Of the Azelia 2017s, this is a touch more open-knit and approachable for an ever-so-slightly earlier drinking option. Drink 2024-2036. Located in Castiglione Falletto, the Azelia estate was founded in 1920 by Lorenzo Scavino. Today it is led by his great-grandson, Luigi Scavino, who is also the cousin of Enrico Scavino of the Paolo Scavino winery. They work to minimize treatments in the vineyard as well as sulfur in the winery. Annual production is approximately 6,000 cases a year.

The 2017 Barolo Bricco Fiasco is bright and effusive from the very first taste. Crushed flowers, red berry fruit, orange peel, spice and mint all grace this nervy, mid-weight Barolo. Medium in body and translucent, the 2017 has quite a bit to offer. It is an especially savory, linear Barolo.