2013 Gevrey Chambertin Les Goulots

(a 50/50 mix of 20- and 43-year-old vines): Medium red. Ineffable high-pitched aromas of blackberry, rose petal, crushed stone and licorice. Sexy and mellow premier cru, with sappy blackberry and floral flavors already conveying strong personality. Finishes with a saline quality and sneaky length. This fruit was harvested at the end, just before the rainfall on October 9, according to Leroux.

The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Groulot, from vines just under 20 years old and another parcel around 45 years old, was picked just before the rains hit. It has a floral bouquet that is very expressive at the moment, well defined and seductive. The palate is also well defined with filigree tannins, hints of licorice and peppermint, fanning out wonderfully toward the sensual finish. Both Benjamin and Jean-Marie Fourrier made superb Groulots this year.