1997 Coteaux du Layon Saint Lambert Les Bonnes Blanches

The gold and amber colored 1997 Coteaux du Layon St.-Lambert Clos des Bonnes Blanches' nose is a cross between caramel and molasses. On the palate, this unctuous syrup is crammed with assorted jams (cherry, apricot, peach) and mocha. It is full-bodied, dense, and heavy. Anticipated maturity: now-2005. As one of the "sugar hunters", there is no doubting the extraordinary, absolutely mind-boggling, levels of ripeness he attains, nor the tireless work that goes into every wine crafted at this estate. However, the question must be posed, is this wine or syrup? It reaches humongous levels of residual sugar, yet does it possess adequate balancing alcohol or acidity? This wine is heavy, plodding, and syrupy. It has more in common with a sweet Sherry such as Lustau's Pedro Jimenez than with other sweet Loire Valley wines. My instincts suggest that this wine will evolve quickly. It already shows gold, amber, even brown colors and reveals some evolved flavors such as molasses. This being said, Pithon and his colleagues should be applauded for attempting to push the quality envelope. Rival growers and wine bureaucrats who are trying to institute "typicity" rules to exclude "sugar hunters" from inclusion within the appellation are working against the best interests of consumers. Lets permit the marketplace to render judgement on these distinctive wines! Importer: Vinifrance Imports, Olivier Daubresse Selections, Arlington, VA; tel (703) 271-6185.