2017 Brunello di Montalcino

Made with certified organic fruit, the Col d'Orcia 2017 Brunello di Montalcino definitely shows some of the heat of the vintage, and I think this impression is reinforced by the location of this property on the southern side of the appellation, where temperatures are normally a few degrees higher on average. The winemaking team at this historic estate is not deterred by hot vintages, and their winemaking protocol captures the freshness and brightness of Sangiovese nonetheless. In fact, the alcohol content here measured 14.5%, which is almost contained, compared to some other wines in this report from cooler subzones. A learned comfort with organic farming is key to this wine's detailed aromas of black cherry, crushed rose and Mediterranean herb. Production is an ambitious 180,000 bottles.

Just mid ruby. Lifted pine and cherry fruit nose with notes of dark spice. The rich fruit is a little reluctant to show it all. The big, grainy tannins are nicely wrapped up in the generous fruit on the finish. Has potential. (WS)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with a dusty display of cherry, wild berries, crushed stone and savory herbs. This is silky and elegant in feel, offering balanced acidity matched by masses of tart red and black berry fruits, along with firming tannins. It’s long, rich and dark with haunting inner florals, but also a surprisingly classic structure. Despite a 30% loss of production in 2017, Col d'Orcia made a balanced and highly enjoyable Brunello.