2006 Krug Clos d'Ambonnay

Krug’s 2006 Clos d’Ambonnay is superb. It offers a beguiling interplay of richness from the warm, solar year and strong mineral underpinnings that wrap it all together. Hints of apricot, plum, baked apple tart and spice soar out of the glass. Soft, curvy and exceptionally well-balanced, the 2006 is the most sensual young Clos d’Ambonnay I have tasted. This is a magnificent showing from Krug. That’s pretty much all there is to it. Best of all, the 2006 is a rare Clos d’Ambonnay that can be enjoyed upon release. Harvest took place over two days and wrapped up on September 22, considered late at the time.

From that tiny 0.68-ha walled plot in the middle of the village that produced affordable wine until Krug snapped it up in order to make the first wine in 1995. This wine was the last bottled before they announced the acquisition in 2007 (although presumably some of the locals realised what was going on?). Released in August 2023, the product of a hot July and a wet early August. This was the year Julie Cavil, now chef de cave, joined the house and she called the vintage 'a champagne miracle'. The nose is till a bit solid and stodgy rather than exhibiting the ethereal nature of so many fine champagnes. It finishes a bit suddenly too. Perhaps I am prejudiced against it because the combination of its rarity and Krug's reputation has resulted in such a high price. Compare and contrast with Krug 2006 and the Grande Cuvée based on the same vintage … (JR)