2017 Cornas Champelrose

The 2017 Cornas Champelrose comes from granite soils and was brought up in 25% new French oak. Its deep purple color is followed by plenty of classic granite character in its damp earth, crushed rock, gravelly minerality, liquid violet, and ripe blue fruits. Medium to full-bodied, with beautiful purity, no hard edges, and a great, great finish, this is a Cornas readers should snatch up. The Courbis brothers continue to keep this estate near the top of the hierarchy in the Northern Rhône, and they’ve made brilliant wines in 2017 and 2018. In general, the style here is quasi-modern and the wines are mostly destemmed and brought up in varying amounts of new French oak. Some of the top single vineyards are brought up in 100% new barrels. Nevertheless, these wines never lose their sense of place and are pure, beautiful expressions of the individual parcels.

Inky ruby color. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe blueberry, cherry liqueur and licorice. A smoky, mineral accent builds in the glass. Appealingly sweet and seamless on the palate, offering lively dark fruit liqueur and floral pastille flavors that are brightened by juicy acidity and a spicy flourish. Clings with strong tenacity on the subtly tannic finish, leaving behind smoke-tinged black/blue fruit notes. (made from vines that are over 70 years old; all used oak)

Cask sample. Tasted blind. Reduction gives a rubbery overlay to the nose, but the palate recovers with ripe redcurrant and cherry fruit and a good peppery seasoning. Dry tannic feel offset by refreshing acidic balance, and there's good persistence on the finish. Once the nose settles, this has a lot going for it – concentrated, youthful primary fruit with classic spicy notes. (RH)