2017 Frauenberg Riesling GG

Scents of sea breeze and lemon peel waft from the glass. The palpable sense of high extract that this wine shares with so many in the present collection is here allied to an almost custardy sense of creamy richness. Yet that richness is accompanied by bright, juicy fresh lemon and lime. This is also another Battenfeld-Spanier bottling that – as anticipated on the nose – exhibits intriguing, mouthwatering marine elements, suggesting seaweed, mussel stock and brine. Thanks to persistent juiciness, the superbly sustained finish is far from austere, even as it leaves an impression of mineral matter that you might think you’ll have to scrub to remove. After I tasted this, Carolin Gillot repeated her familiar refrain that the Battenfeld-Spanier Grosse Gewächse – and above all the Frauenberg that Spanier likes to refer to as Steinwein – need at least a couple of years in bottle to really show their stuff.

Deep straw colour. Hazelnut aroma. Broad, rather sumptuous nose with crystalline, youthful fruit. Very tight, taut wine that will need time to uncoil but it's impressive. Hint of sherbet. Quite textured at the moment. (JR)

There's a fair amount of tropical fruit in fragrance and flavour, but kiwi and pineapple provide more than just sweet juice; but also some mouth-watering piquancy. A crunchy bite of rhubarb reflects the contribution of ambient yeasts and adds a little vigour to the finish. (MS)