2017 Gevrey Chambertin Les Combottes
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Neal Martin
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The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes 1er Cru includes 30% whole bunches, matured in one-third new oak. It is pure and mineral-driven on the nose, though more understated than the 2016 last year. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet red cherries and crushed strawberry notes, quite airy and elegant in style, with fine transparency on the stony finish. Classic Gevrey-Chambertin.
Here too moderately generous wood surround the nose that is also relatively high-toned with its aromas of pomegranate, red cherry, various floral scents and soft spice nuances. The medium weight flavors possess a notably finer texture thanks to the relatively fine-grained tannins that also support the long and mildly austere finish that is on the compact side today. I expect this to add flesh and unwind as it ages and as is often the case, this is the best of Lignier's 1ers in 2017.
There are three barrels of the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes, a pretty and expressive wine that offers up lovely notes of raspberries, licorice, dried flowers and juicy cherries. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with a generous core of fruit that largely conceals its structuring tannin, balanced by juicy acids. This will offer a broad drinking window.