2007 Cornas La Geynale

Ruby-red. Exotically perfumed bouquet smoky dark berries, incense, anise and tobacco, complicated by a sexy floral quality. Juicy, deeply concentrated black raspberry and blackcurrant flavors are enlivened by a tangy mineral note and framed by chewy tannins. This has taken a darker turn since I saw it last year. The finish repeats the anise and floral notes and lingers impressively. As serious as the Granit 60 seems, this is even more brooding today but holds out excellent promise.

The most impressive offering is the black/purple-colored 2007 Cornas La Geynale. Aromas of pen ink, charcoal, blackberry jam, licorice, and saddle leather are followed by huge, massive flavors suggestive of concentrated beef blood and ink. Dense, pure, rich, and broodingly backward, it needs 5-6 years of bottle age, and should drink well over the following two decades. These impressive, quasi-modern-styled Cornas reveal the influence of barrique aging, but there is no doubting their savage blast of blue and black fruits as well as spring flowers. In 2007, Paris has added a third cuvee from one of the most highly respected vineyard sites high on the steep hills of Cornas, La Geynale. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers) Paris, fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Deep red. Expansive and alluring nose displays red and dark berry aromas along with Asian spices and violet. Juicy raspberry and cassis flavors stain the palate, with firm tannins adding focus. The tangy, precise finish features a strong lingering note of spicy red fruits. This will be Vincent Paris's first release of this wine, which comes from vines he inherited from his now-retired uncle Robert Michel.