2016 Barbera d'Asti La Crena

The 2016 Barbera d'Asti La Crena is powerful but also linear, with all of the energy that is typical of the Barberas of Asti. La Crena needs a good bit of bottle age to be at its best, so readers should plan on being patient. Today, the 2016 is a tightly wound ball of energy. Time in the glass brings out hints of smoke, graphite, dried flowers, lavender and spice, all of which will blossom in a few years or more. The 2016 is a bit less bombastic than some other recent editions have been, and that is for the best. The 2016 is simply fabulous.

This is a gorgeous wine, so creamy and rich. Luca Currado has hit the magic button here with the 2016 Barbera d'Asti La Crena. Beautifully ripe and succulent, and teeming with generous layers of bright fruit, this expression is opulent and complete. The vines used here in the so-called Vigna del Nove parcel are from the 1930s, with the first edition of La Crena produced by Vietti in 1996. This is a particularly elegant vintage, spreading vibrantly over the entire mouthfeel. I'd preserve the texture by serving it only with some light crackers and aromatic cheeses. Some 8,000 bottles were made.

The 2016 Barbera d'Asti La Crena is going to need many years to be at its most expressive. Then again, that is La Crena. Today, the 2016 is rich, dense and super-concentrated, with huge layers of fruit that cover the subtler notes that come through after several years in bottle. The energy and tension that are typical of Asti come through on the finish.