2008 Vosne Romanee Aux Reignots

Cherry, blackberry, peat, and game in the nose of the Grivot 2008 Vosne Romanee Reignots set the theme for a firm though juicy palate, and salt, chalk, nut oil, and cherry pit notes in an invigorating, downright refreshing finish reminding me of the extent to which the wines in this collection – by design – showcase Pinot virtues that can also apply to white wines. Since there were only around 350 liters, Grivot elected to supplement a new barrique with a new feuillette, which explains a hint of oak resin and slight sense of tannic stiffness that will hopefully be absorbed. Certainly the wine deserves to be attended to for at least a decade. “We never want rapid malos,” notes Etienne Grivot, “but those in 2008 were not especially late or long by our standards – no longer than in 2002 or 2005. And I didn’t sulfur the wines when they were completed, because the volatile acids were really low and the pHs were very good” (i.e. low). Instead, most of Grivot’s 2008s were only sulfured after the 2009 harvest. Grivot gave them at least 3 weeks in tank before bottling, which took place between January and early April. Based on my intuitions and Grivot’s testimony, several of his 2008s were suffering significantly from post-bottling depression when I tasted them in late April, so readers should bear this is mind and recognize that my scores, in isolation, might prove misleadingly low. Grivot characterizes the 2008s as “dynamic but introverted” and “less accessible” than either the 2006s or 2007s, but that contrast appears to have been exacerbated by circumstances on this occasion. (In view of the delightful showing of two Grivot 2007s in April, I regret that I simply wasn’t able to taste more wines from that collection in the time available to me.) Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400