2017 Barolo Margheria
Estimated value
Buying options
Tasting notes
Serralunga d’Alba. A high, sandy site that’s steep and faces south-west. Their most open wine from the oldest vines of their estate. Planted 1958. Very white soil. 5,500 bottles produced. Rich nose. Undergrowth notes. Sweet and lifted. Almost candified. Flirtatious. Lifted finish. Much less drying than the 2019. Quite juicy. (JR)
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
More subdued aromatically speaking, the Massolino 2017 Barolo Margheria is timid on first nose and takes longer to open. I coaxed the wine in my glass for a while before getting a fuller picture of red and purple fruits, grilled herb, limestone and a spicy hint of white peppercorn. I remember the cooler 2016 vintage as beautifully exuberant and expressive overall, whereas this 2017 edition has a quieter personality.
From an average of 35-year-old vines in Serralunga d’Alba, the 2017 Barolo Margheria is fragrant with anise, roses, and dried cranberry. The structure is forward, with angular tannins and tangy fruit, inclusing red plum skin, dried orange peel, and turned earth. A bit tightly wound in its youthful state, both aromatically and structurally, hold for 3-5 years and drink 2024-2042.
The 2017 Barolo Margheria is a compelling, multi-faceted Barolo loaded with personality. Sage, mint, lavender, spice, iron and red/purplish berry fruit grace this firm, classically built Barolo. This translucent, taut Barolo has so much to offer, but it also needs time to soften. Readers will find a terrific example of Margheria.