2016 Chevalier Montrachet

(bottled in January; Colin's vines in the lower part of this grand cru largely escaped frost damage): Bright, light yellow. Very ripe aromas of nectarine, tropical fruits and minerals. At once thick and harmonious, with its sweet nectarine and yellow peach flavors perfectly framed by ripe acidity. This dense, pliant wines finishes firm and long, with no rough edges. A lovely Chardonnay in a distinctly ripe, yellow-fruit style.

The 2016 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru comprises of three barrels instead of the usual five, although there is an additional barrel that comes from Philippe's parents from this vintage onward. It has a well-defined and quite fragrant bouquet with scents of citrus fruit, orange blossom, wet granite and a touch of sea spray. I would have liked just a little more vigor at this stage. The palate is very well balanced with neatly integrated oak from the two new barrels, good weight in the mouth with a spicy vein that emerges toward the tensile finish. Despite the depleted quantity and the traumatic growing season, this is a very well-crafted Chevalier-Montrachet.

(35 hectoliters per hectare produced, as Colin's vines are situated in the lower section of this cru, which was much less affected by frost than the top): Bright yellow. Lovely Chassagne perfume of pear, white flowers and deep, stony minerality. Silky and fine-grained, with its minerality nicely enrobed by fruits. A wine of finesse, consistent from start to finish. This plush, tactile Chevalier should offer early appeal but there's nothing flat about it.