2016 Beaune Greves

(vinified with 25% whole clusters; production here was just over half of a normal crop, which winemaker Jérôme Faure-Brac said gave the wine a natural concentration): More complex and less blocked on the nose and palate than the Cras, offering subtle elements of raspberry, black cherry, spices and smoky minerality. A step up in mineral spine and inner-mouth energy as well. Finishes classically dry and persistent, with good backbone and broad, palate-dusting tannins.

The 2016 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves comes from vines located just 50 meters from Les Cras and includes around 25% whole bunch fruit. The nose was showing just a touch of reduction, but underneath lies attractive, quite punchy cranberry and cassis fruit. The palate is well balanced with earthy, red berry fruit and is lent a little rusticity by the whole bunch addition but still balanced with a pleasant bitter cherry finish. This is a fine Beaune Grèves that should end up at the top end of my banded score.

Cask sample. 10% whole cluster. 15 months in oak. Mid crimson. Plenty of oak sweetness on the nose here, dominating the fruit at the moment. Firm, dry and very refined, the tannins present but subtle and fine-grained. Not showy, more polite and savoury on the finish. (JH)