2017 Pouilly Fuisse

A generous bouquet of pear, barley sugar, lychee and mandarin that faintly recalls the wines of Barsac introduces Guffens's 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé C C, a full-bodied, fleshy and ample wine that's broad and textural, but which displays more energy than I anticipated when I tried it from barrel. As I've written before, this wine is analogous with the Mâcon-Pierreclos En Crazy in that it contains the press wine from Guffens's top cuvées from the appellation—in addition to juice from the lieux-dits of Côte and Carmentrans, whose initials give it its name. Like the En Crazy, it's adapted for early consumption; Guffens calls it his "restaurant wine."