2012 Batard Montrachet

The 2012 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is much more taciturn on the bouquet when compared to the Corton-Charlemagne. There is a light marine influence coming through with aeration: cockle shell and oyster shell. The palate is fresh with a fume, walnut-driven opening. There is a touch of reduction here at the moment, but it blows off with vigorous aeration, leaving you with a potent nutmeg and hazelnut finish. Excellent. Drink 2016-2030. I wanted to taste through Francois Lequin’s 2012 during my round of tastings in November, but he was one of those winegrowers that unfortunately slipped through the net. Fortunately, I was finally able to catch up with him in Burgundy, and, as I anticipated, discovered much to admire. His first vintage was in 1996, working alongside his father Rene (married to Josette Colin), but has been on his own since 2006. He told me that he reduced the amount of chemical treatments in the vineyard since then, to the point where he is now organically certified and is trying biodynamics on a trial basis. His 2012s spent about 12 months in barrel plus a further 3-5 months in stainless steel to allow them to settle, and were bottled just before Christmas with minimal fining and filtration. His portfolio is crowned by a cracking Corton-Charlemagne, one of the best that I tasted in this vintage, while his other crus are all well-worth investigating for their exquisite balance and terroir expression. Although Francois makes three red wines, they are overshadowed by his exemplary white wines, so you know where to head. Importer: Margate Wines & Spirits LLC, Northfield, NJ; tel. (609) 404-3000; fax (609) 404-4610; and through UK agents Bordeaux Index Ltd.; www.bordeauxindex.com