2021 Crozes Hermitage Les Varonniers
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Tasting notes
From a western-facing granite slope and aged in a bit of new oak, the 2021 Crozes Hermitage les Varonniers features hints of maple syrup and cracked pepper accenting ripe black cherries on the nose. In the mouth, it's medium-bodied, smooth and silky, finishing elegantly, with some attractive black-tea notes.
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Alistair Cooper MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
A hidden little gem in the vintage is the 2021 Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers, which often tastes more like a top Hermitage than a Crozes-Hermitage. Coming from a steep, granitic, west-facing hillside just beside Hermitage (which can struggle in high mildew vintages) and brought up in 20% new demi-muids, it has a deeper purple hue as well as beautiful blue fruits (cassis, blueberries) as well ample violet, camphor, graphite, and obvious mineral-like nuances. Playing in the medium-bodied end of the spectrum, it has beautiful balance, ripe yet building tannins, and a gorgeous finish. It's one of the few 2021s that's going to benefit from bottle age, and I certainly wouldn't be shocked to see this still singing at age 20. This was another fabulous tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his team, and it continues to be one of the highlight tastings I do in a year. The portfolio is massive, so there’s certainly something in here for everyone. Looking at the 2021s, I was able to retaste a handful of the flagship whites, and these appear to have shut down slightly. I wouldn’t touch bottles for another 3-5 years. The reds are leaner and focused, but balanced, and certainly impeccably made. However, the 2022s continue to trend here, starting around 2017 or 2018, toward fresher, lighter wines, both with the reds and whites. In addition, they’re all experimenting with whole cluster fermentations, which works beautifully in the wines I was able to taste.
The 2021 Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers offers up ripe blackberry, raspberry, graphite and meaty aromas. Vinified from certified biodynamic grapes, it touches the palate with moderate flavor concentration and bright acidity. Slightly chalky tannins take away some of the fun to drink this today.
Cask/tank sample. Dark fruit, crushed blackberries, subtle smoke. The palate has very firm tannins, dark fruits and tension. Smoky, earthy and brooding. Moderate concentration of fruit that should allow the tannins to integrate. Dark and brooding. (AC)