2021 Ermitage de l'Oree Blanc

Showing similarly to last year and all Marsanne brought up mostly in demi-muids, the 2021 Ermitage De L'Orée is vibrant and focused, which is very much in the style of the vintage, with a kiss of clean reduction in its orange blossom, green almond, white flower, and subtly honeyed mineral-like aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, fresh, focused, yet nicely concentrated, it will evolve for 10-15 years. This was another fabulous tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his team, and it continues to be one of the highlight tastings I do in a year. The portfolio is massive, so there’s certainly something in here for everyone. Looking at the 2021s, I was able to retaste a handful of the flagship whites, and these appear to have shut down slightly. I wouldn’t touch bottles for another 3-5 years. The reds are leaner and focused, but balanced, and certainly impeccably made. However, the 2022s continue to trend here, starting around 2017 or 2018, toward fresher, lighter wines, both with the reds and whites. In addition, they’re all experimenting with whole cluster fermentations, which works beautifully in the wines I was able to taste.

Prominent struck match, lemon peel, acacia, ripe pear, yellow apple and vanilla traces introduce the sapid 2021 Ermitage Blanc De L'Orée. Full-bodied and rich, yet neatly maintaining elegance and freshness, the 2021 delivers a terrific expression of old-vine expression from the historic Hermitage appellation. It should drink well over the next decade.

Rich – honeysuckle and white flowers with apricot. A dense mouthfeel and very well-balanced acidity. Mouth-watering minerality towards the finish. Honeycomb, rich acacia honey and a broad, but fresh, finish. (AC)