2018 Lumiere

100% Palomino from Pago Miraflores La Plater in Sanlucar de Barrameda. Fermented and aged 10 months in used Bordeaux barrels. A little deeper in colour than the Univers, and again slightly cloudy but still pale. A little more open and richer-smelling than the Univers, riper yellow fruit – sour yellow plum, sour apricot, though not as sweet as that might suggest – as well as the intrinsic smoky, stony but somehow rich and still herbal notes. There’s even a suggestion of exotic flowers as it opens up, perhaps jasmine with a flicker of spice. Smells as if there was quite a time on the lees. Deep and at the same time creamy and chewy in the mouth. Like the Univers, this has lovely presence and depth for a wine of 12.5%. The acidity and the fruit depth are perfectly matched in a wine that you really have to sip slowly to enjoy fully. Then on the finish, the return of a lightly smoky reductive dry intensity that is as much about texture as flavour. Still a touch salty but more mineral. Incredibly long and satisfying. Even with so much intrigue and complexity, the fruit is lovely. Persistent, tantalising finish. I’m grasping for words. (JH)

100% unfortified Palomino Fino from the 1.2-ha La Platera plot of old vines in the Pago Miraflores in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Aged in old French oak. A new joint venture with David Léclapart of Champagne. Very slightly cloudy (I was urged to stand the bottles upright for two weeks before opening) and really exciting. Yeasty, bready (aromas I may be misdescribing because of associations with Fino and Manzanilla) and chock-full of intense grassy fruit. Long grip on the palate. Very pure and pungent but not exaggerated. Much more refreshing acidity than I have encountered before in unfortified wines from sherry country. There's just a hint of Manzanilla but also of cooking apples and pure refreshment. Very impressive. I'm not sure about the ageing potential since this is such a new style so am erring on the side of caution. (JR)