2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Deux Freres

The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Réserve Des Deux Freres is almost all Grenache but includes a tiny parcel of very old vine Serine Syrah from Charbonniere. This deep purple-hued effort boasts a killer nose of blackberries, cassis, spicy wood, graphite, and ground pepper, among other Provençal nuances. Pure, full-bodied, and flawlessly balanced, it has building yet perfectly ripe tannins, the vintage’s more elegant, streamlined style, and a great finish. It's beautifully done and will benefit from just a few years of bottle age and keep for 15 to 20 years. One of the leading estates in Châteauneuf du Pape is unquestionably Domaine Pierre Usseglio, which is run by Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio, with the next generation of Gregory Usseglio now working full-time with the estate as well. The lineup has shifted slightly over the years, with their Côtes du Rhône being replaced by the L’Unique label, which is released as a Vin de France. They produce a terrific Lirac, both red and white. Looking at the Châteauneuf du Pape releases, the classic red and white are now released under the label Premiere Pierre, and they’ve added the new Clos Pierre Usseglio 18 Cépages, which includes all 18 of the permitted grape varieties, red and white. The Cuvée Mon Aïeul and Reserve des Deux Freres remain unchanged and are two brilliant, yet dramatically different, expressions of Grenache.

The 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des 2 Freres raises the quality bar higher, offering scents of cedar, dried spices and black cherries. A blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Serine (Syrah), aged in new barrels, it's full-bodied, rich and plush in feel, finishing long and velvety. I've said this before, but it bears repeating—I'm not usually a fan of maturing Grenache in small-format new oak vessels, but it seems to work in this case, resulting in a wine that's somehow dessert-rich, yet savory and not overbearing, with a soft, almost pillowy impression on the palate.