2021 Ermitage Blanc l'Ermite
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L’Ermite is a tiny 0.5-hectare plot planted with the oldest Marsanne vines at the estate. Some of the vines are over 100 years old and their low yields produce a wine of extraordinary complexity. The 2021 is a real wow wine. The smoky volcanic mineral tones are extraordinary and dominate the nose. The ethereal texture brings an amazing level of finesse – it is totally seamless and perfectly integrated. This has so much energy without excess, giving it an amazing trajectory that will bring much drinking pleasure over decades.
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Average Score
Jeb Dunnuck
Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2021 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc was tasted one month prior to bottling, hence the parenthetical rating. Scents of crushed stone accent notes of apricot, pineapple and lime on the nose, while the palate is medium to full-bodied. In the mouth, this is straight, almost severe; it tells you when to jump and how high, with zesty, briny notes lingering long on the finish.
The clear standout of the whites from Chapoutier in 2021 is the 2021 Ermitage L'Ermite Blanc, a vibrant, concentrated, yet chisel and focused Hermitage Blanc. Subtly reductive notes of orange blossom, sappy flowers, almond paste, and a liquid rock-like minerality all define the aromatics, and it hits the palate with medium-bodied richness, a beautifully balanced mouthfeel, and a great finish. Aged 90% in demi-muids (25% new) and 10% in tank, it deserves 3-4 years of bottle age and will evolve nicely over the following 10-15 years. This was another fabulous tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his team, and it continues to be one of the highlight tastings I do in a year. The portfolio is massive, so there’s certainly something in here for everyone. Looking at the 2021s, I was able to retaste a handful of the flagship whites, and these appear to have shut down slightly. I wouldn’t touch bottles for another 3-5 years. The reds are leaner and focused, but balanced, and certainly impeccably made. However, the 2022s continue to trend here, starting around 2017 or 2018, toward fresher, lighter wines, both with the reds and whites. In addition, they’re all experimenting with whole cluster fermentations, which works beautifully in the wines I was able to taste.
The stunning 2021 Ermitage Blanc L'Ermite exhales intense hawthorn, flintstone, lemon peel, ripe pear, honeysuckle and white peach aromatics. The intentionally reductive elements are seamlessly integrated into the overall aromatic profile, making their presence felt without overshadowing everything else. Touching the palate with mind-boggling energy and elevated flavor concentration, the 2021 fires on all cylinders. Enjoy this immaculately sculpted L'Ermite over the next decade.