2021 Ermitage Le Meal

The 2021 Ermitage Le Méal is a solid step up over the Les Greffieux, with more density and richness, although it's still firmly in the more elegant, pretty, medium-bodied style of the vintage. All destemmed and raised in 20% new oak, it has a perfumed nose of black raspberries, sandalwood, white pepper, and spice. I love its overall balance, and while it’s not massive, it shines for its purity and elegance. Drink bottles over the coming 15-20 years. This was another fabulous tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his team, and it continues to be one of the highlight tastings I do in a year. The portfolio is massive, so there’s certainly something in here for everyone. Looking at the 2021s, I was able to retaste a handful of the flagship whites, and these appear to have shut down slightly. I wouldn’t touch bottles for another 3-5 years. The reds are leaner and focused, but balanced, and certainly impeccably made. However, the 2022s continue to trend here, starting around 2017 or 2018, toward fresher, lighter wines, both with the reds and whites. In addition, they’re all experimenting with whole cluster fermentations, which works beautifully in the wines I was able to taste.

Red-fruited and discretely marked by cedar and vanilla, the medium-bodied 2021 Ermitage Le Méal shows more moderate flavor concentration than other recent vintages. Polished and refreshing, it concludes with a pleasant finale.

Mealy, wet hay, white-flower and jasmine nose. Good concentration on the palate with a stony, flinty note. Fresh, zesty acidity and a honeyed, dense finish. Apricot and ripe fruits. Very attractive, medium-weight style. (AC)