2009 Clos Lanson
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From the Clos in the city of Reims, the 2009 Champagne Blanc De Blancs Clos Lanson Brut is the only Lanson wine fermented in barrels. It pours a bright yellow hue and is forward with ripe aromas of Meyer lemon oil, brioche, ripe pear, and delicate notes of hazelnut. Full-bodied, it’s rounded and ripe through the palate, with a pillowy mousse and a broader nature in contrast to the 2008, which will be released this year. The 2009 is much more open-knit, with a more primary and generous nature, and takes on a pithier texture and riper feel. Although it’s ready to enjoy now, this should have a solid couple of decades ahead of it. Drink it over the next 20 or so years. Consumers will notice a very slight evolution in the label's appearance. Cellar master Hervé Dantan took over in 2013 and is the third generation in his family of winegrowers. In addition to working and studying in Champagne, Mr. Dantan also spent time in Burgundy and at Gloria Ferrer in Sonoma. Historically, the winery entirely blocked malolactic fermentation, but they’re no longer dogmatic about it, although they continue to strive for a crispy style. Since Hervé’s arrival, they have worked to create a vineyard team and are moving to becoming certified sustainable and using organic practices whenever possible. They work with 400 different partners in the vineyards. The vineyard La Clos de Lanson in Reims is the only urban clos in the region and is a single hectare planted to Chardonnay. It’s the only parcel that’s fermented in barrel, and the latest release is the 2007 vintage. The vintage bottlings are produced from Grand Cru and Premier Cru sites, with the prestige cuvées consisting entirely of Grand Cru. Structural developments include a barrel room built in 2015 and a new press house in Verzenay that opened last year. The press house is also the home of a new future clos currently of young vines facing the landmark windmill of the village. With this year’s releases, Dantan and the team are working to show more transparency in their labeling, beginning with the Black Label. Consumers will find that there is now a “Creation” number added to the label, with this year’s release called Creation 257, as it is the 257th release. For future releases, the numbers will move forward sequentially.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
The 2009 Blanc de Blancs Clos Lanson is an extra brut and was disgorged in May 2022 with three grams per liter. It reveals a vibrant, bright bouquet with aromas of menthol, lemon oil, grapefruit, spring flowers and orchard fruits. Medium to full-bodied, lively and chiseled, it’s more tense and refined than its 2018 counterpart, concluding with a lively, penetrating and mouthwatering finish. This represents a shift in style due to the third year of biodynamic practices which bring a finely honed texture and a more vibrant acidity.
From Lanson's special one-hectare Chardonnay vineyard in the middle of Reims. Vinified in oak barrels – no malo – and aged for 12 years before disgorgement in May 2022 with a dosage of 3 g/l. Very heavy bottle! I hope they are now using lighter ones … Pale straw. Really intense nose and a most unusual mix of the high acidity of youth with a very mature nose (2009 was of course very ripe). Very interesting wine with more than a hint of white burgundy, even a vague suggestion of Corton-Charlemagne. Really rather delicious! A great wine at the table, I should imagine. Very distinctive. And really exciting on the finish. Really spreads across the palate. (JR)
Clos Lanson is unusual for making a vintage every year because this 1ha pure Chardonnay plot is in a warm, early-ripening location. Even visually it looks wonderfully bright, greengage/pale silver in colour, with a silky texture and fresh aromatics of apricot blossom and citrus zest. On the palate, you get quince, apricot pit, stone fruits, citrus, white truffle and honeysuckle, just gorgeous layers with grip, tension, and a natural richness that allows them to keep dosage on the low side. Full of generosity and finesse, this will easily last at least another decade. As it opens, walnut, frangipane and flaky pastry notes appear, and it grips on. First time on the Place for this wine. Tasted twice. Winemaker Hervé Dantan. 3g/l dosage, disgorged May 2022, so this will benefit from another year in bottle. They are releasing the 2009 before the cooler 2008 vintage. Vinified in Agonne-forest barrels (the only Lanson cuvée to do so), no new oak, 12 years ageing in cellars.
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12.5%
Blanc de Blancs