1990 Clos Vougeot

1990 is Jean Faurois's last vintage as he takes his retirement and the vineyards revert to the Domaine Meo-Camuzet. I was surprised by the light colors his wines display in 1990, but there is no doubting they are tasty, albeit more evolved wines than many other 1990s. It is probably academic to review Faurois's Clos de Vougeot since only 25 cases make it to the United States, but it possesses an attractive dark ruby color, as well as an alcoholic, roasted fruit and black-cherry-scented nose. In the mouth, the wine is excellent rather than dazzling, with medium to full body, fine concentration, light tannins, low acidity, and a heady, lusty finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, New York, NY.