2019 Contraste Tinto

The 2019 Contraste Tinto is a field blend of sorts—mostly (80%) from 40-year-old vineyards at 450 meters in altitude with separated grapes (Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz) that are co-fermented, with the other 20% from 60-year-old vineyards with a more traditional field blend. It was aged for 16 months in used French oak and comes in at 13.6% alcohol. Showing elegance but reasonable depth, this is even more impressive for its balance, understatement and its structure. As this sat in the glass, it became tastier too. This wine, a classic food wine, has been very consistent, always playing in pretty much the same ballpark when seen young. The only question is the ultimate question: Will it become notably better with a few years of aging? This year's version will improve in the short term (say, the next six to 12 months) and has a pretty good shot to improve in the mid-term too. By how much is a question, however, and it likely won't make very old bones. It's hard to argue too much at this nice price, though. It can be drunk now, but it will certainly be better this summer, and it will hold through the decade, more or less.