2017 Barolo Gattera

The organic Cordero di Montezemolo 2017 Barolo Gattera, a release of about 5,300 bottles, is a beautifully fleshed-out and generous wine. That's the impression it gives on first nose, and the wine continues to deliver long after the bottle has been opened. With fruit from La Morra, the Gattera delivers a rush of wild berry, dried blueberry, lilac, earthy truffle and powdered licorice. All these elements are especially bold in this hot and dry vintage, although the fruit never feels too ripe or overly concentrated. However, the mouthfeel is noticeably thinner and shorter in this bottling from 2017.

The 2017 Barolo Gattera is sensual and wonderfully expressive. Succulent dark cherry, spice, mint, rose petal and a kiss of French oak meld together in a racy, inviting Barolo that will drink well right out of the gate. There's lovely immediacy to the 2017, but also enough structure to allow for 15-20 years of fine drinking, maybe more.

La Morra. Nine to ten days on the skins. On the first day a little cryo-maceration to cool grapes down. Undergoes malolactic fermentation in oak. Aged in barriques and large oak. This is only one large vat and nine or ten barriques, of which four were new (the remainder third-use). Healthy mid ruby. Perfumed, focused, pure and concentrated. Cherry with hints of black pepper and rhubarb. Same purity of fruit on the palate. Juicy acidity and a big layer of powdery tannins, which make themselves more than noticed. Hits the balance and showing impressive length and concentration but closes up. I would give this at least a couple of years. (WS)