2020 Rottgen Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Grown on blue slate. Vines average 60 years old, many ungrafted. Deep aromas of roasting lemons, ripe apricots, and a bit of smoky reduction. Here is the lower Mosel in all its stony glory. Dreamy and creamy with a palate laden with uneven cobblestones of flavour to keep your attention. Baked peach expressions and concentrated herbal notions of sage and thyme. Considerably more sleek and structured than the Stolzenberg. Excellent, racy momentum even when it's warm and a lingering pithy finish. (PS)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The 2020 Röttgen GG opens with an intense and concentrated, still a bit reductive nose that represents very ripe and warm fruit yet less of the coolish Mosel stereotype. I even pick up some lactic notes here. Rich and very intense on the palate, this is a sweetish, salty-piquant Röttgen with a more baroque style than usual and with a slightly bitter finish. Needs time to gain finesse and purity. Tasted in Wiesbaden in August 2021.
'The Sound of Slate' is written on the back label. ' Mocha whirrs about the fruit market, dancing in the richness of choral song' they say. From a particularly steep slope of blue slate. Vines are on average 60 years old with many ungrafted. Minimal intervention in the cellar. Very intense nose and real tension on the palate with fruit that was obviously very ripe – though the acidity comes dancing through. Still fairly embryonic. Quite chewy on the end at this early stage in its life. Superbly refreshing. Hugely intense palate too – great extract. (JR)