2017 Niersteiner Hipping Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Given the superb performance of this year’s (largely Hipping) village-level Niersteiner, Keller served me this Hipping immediately thereafter, thus emphasizing why he chose not to include fruit from the uppermost or lowest part of the slope in his Grosses Gewächs. The animating brightness and tang conveyed here by fresh lemon, tangerine and pineapple near the core – anticipated on the wine’s effusive nose – translate into consummate refreshment and mouth-shaking vibrancy. There is a remarkable sense throughout this performance of transparency to myriad aromatic as well as tactile nuances. Iris and gentian perfume, smoke, stone, green tea and sea salt all combine for a superb show and linger with haunting, mouthwatering persistence. The texture is silken and there is a sense of lift that belies the 13% alcohol indicated on the wine’s label. Impressive though this already is, I feel confident that it will prove even better with time in bottle.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Extremely deep, but as straight as a laser beam, this is brimming with grapefruit, herb and smoke character. The enormous, mineral freshness on the super-concentrated palate drives the finish out in the direction of infinity. Better from 2019.
No apologies for putting Keller at the top of the Hipping ratings, and it is not power or intensity that earns admiration, but the ability to bring all the different aspects together without overloading the wine. First there is fruit, not too expansive, but profound. After that a cool herbaceous interlude begins to stimulate the senses. Once the flavour opens up, a stream of fresh minty notes and even crunchy sorrel take charge. Mineral grip on the finish gets the Grosses Gewächs job done. (MS)
To be bottled August 2018. 37-year-old vines, 2.5 t/ha. Both intense and pretty on the nose. Deep citrus and also some peppery white blossom. Mineral spice and herbs too. Then rich in orange pith on the palate, deep and somehow more gentle than the Kirchspiel even though it has real intensity. The acidity is crisp but less defining, much more mouth-filling. Such a contrast with the Kirchspiel. Totally captivating and a wine to lose yourself in, a wine of rich generosity, almost exotic fruit, without any loss of purity and freshness. Endlessly long and already complex but without that saltiness of the Kirchspiel. The freshness is still remarkable on the finish. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.