2020 Westhofener Kirchspiel Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Lime, grapefruit, lavender, roux and thyme combine for a haunting fragrance. Crisp, tangy, fresh apple joins the aforementioned elements on a polished, firm palate. The finish is chalky and stony, lengthened by piquancy of grapefruit pips. It's mouthwateringly saline and mouth-shakingly vibrant, bursting unexpectedly into a shower of citrus and apple juiciness. The overall impression here is of striking clarity and energy. This will be exciting to follow. (As usual, there was also a not-quite-legally-dry “RR” bottling from Kirchspiel this vintage, but I did not have an opportunity to taste it.)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Far from the wild and funky excesses of spontaneous fermentation, it can also take on a most enchanting herbal expression with just a gentle nod to the Provence and that’s the fragrant route the Kirchspiel goes down. If you were lulled into a sensory comfort zone by the nose, you will snap out of it on the palate, where the taste of cool mint and salty minerality is even more vitalised by lemony acidity and a sorrel-like crunch. Austere but not mean. (MS)
Slight funk (from reduction) at first, but it quickly blossoms in the glass and a wealth of citrus aromas emerge, ranging from blossoms to candied peel. Brimming with white peach, sliced pear and citrus fruit, but very elegant on the front palate. Then comes a positive touch of citrus-pith bitterness at the long finish. Drink or hold.
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.